Tailoring: How Custom-Fit Garments Boost Confidence and Style
December 4, 2024
Tailoring transforms more than your look—it boosts confidence, celebrates individuality, and makes clothing a personal
After four decades of threading needles and pressing seams, I’ve discovered that the right books can be as essential as a sharp pair of scissors. As a plus-size sewist navigating the wonderful world of garment creation, these five books have become my trusted companions, dog-eared and bookmarked from years of use.
When I first got this book “The Tailoring Book,” I was struggled with fitting a blazer that just wouldn’t fit right across my shoulders. This book transformed my understanding of garment construction. Smith’s genius lies in adaptability. When my broad shoulders required special attention, her detailed instructions helped me master the art of sleeve adjustments. I found myself dog-earing pages filled with invaluable fitting solutions I couldn’t find elsewhere.
The book flows like a well-planned sewing class. I started with basic bodice adjustments, then gradually tackled more complex techniques like pad stitching lapels and creating the perfect roll line for collars.” I particularly value the troubleshooting sections that have saved countless projects from disaster.
Pattern Design Fundamentals by Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks: Breaking Free from Standard Patterns
After years of frustration with commercial patterns, this book empowered me to create my own. Matthews-Fairbanks presents pattern-making not just as a technical skill, but as an art form that celebrates body diversity.
The book’s approach to creating slopers changed my entire perspective on garment design. I’ve used these principles to develop a personal library of patterns that work perfectly for my pear-shaped figure, something I never achieved with off-the-rack patterns.
Don’t let the word “couture” intimidate you. Shaeffer’s book taught me that couture isn’t about perfection – it’s about intention. The techniques I’ve learned here have transformed simple garments into pieces I’m proud to wear.
The section on pad stitching revolutionized my collar construction, while the detailed instructions for welt pockets gave me the confidence to add professional details to my handmade jackets. These techniques took longer, but they have given my garments longevity and made every extra minute worth it.
Sewing for Plus Sizes by Barbara Deckert: This book truly understands sewing for plus-sizes.
Finding this book felt like discovering a friend who truly understood my sewing challenges. Deckert doesn’t just adapt standard techniques for larger sizes – she completely rethinks garment construction from a plus-size perspective.
Working through this book transformed how I approach plus-size sewing. Instead of wrestling with commercial patterns, I learned to embrace fuller bust adjustments and discovered how different fabrics drape across curves. Now I reach for stable knits when creating wrap dresses and know exactly where to place darts for the most flattering fit.
This book has been my constant companion for 30 years. Just last month, I discovered a clever zipper technique on page 237 that I’d somehow missed before. When my granddaughter asked me to help with her first sewing project, this was the book I reached for.
The book’s section on home accessories has inspired me to expand beyond garment making, leading to a collection of handmade cushions and curtains that have transformed my living space.
This book changed my entire approach to fitting. When I struggled with a gaping neckline in my favorite dress pattern, Palmer and Alto’s tissue-fitting method solved the issue instantly. Their systematic approach to pattern alterations helped me identify fitting issues before cutting into precious fabric.
The book’s photos of real fitting adjustments on different body types make complex alterations clear. I keep their “order of fitting” checklist taped to my sewing room wall.
After decades of sewing, this book still offers fresh perspectives on fitting challenges. The section on shoulder adjustments finally helped me understand why my blouses never hung quite right. Their solutions for common fitting problems are practical and easy to follow.
I particularly value their “cut and spread” techniques for pattern adjustment. These methods helped me transform a basic shirt pattern into my go-to template for perfectly fitted blouses.
I recommend you keep a notebook of techniques you’ve mastered from each book.
Use sticky notes to mark frequently referenced pages.
Practice new techniques on scrap fabric before attempting them on your project.
Combine approaches from different books to develop your unique style
Remember, these books are tools, not rulebooks. They’re meant to guide and inspire, not restrict your creativity. Each one of these books has contributed something unique to my sewing journey, helping me develop a style that’s distinctly my own.
It does not matter how long you have been sewing , these books offer something valuable for every sewist. They’ve helped me create a wardrobe that fits my body and reflects my personality – and they can do the same for you.
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My Journey with Five Life-Changing Sewing Books: A Plus-Size Sewist’s Perspective
After four decades of threading needles and pressing seams, I’ve discovered that the right books can be as essential as a sharp pair of scissors. As a plus-size sewist navigating the wonderful world of garment creation, these five books have become my trusted companions, dog-eared and bookmarked from years of use.
Share your favorite go to sewing books. Happy Learning!
Tailoring transforms more than your look—it boosts confidence, celebrates individuality, and makes clothing a personal
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