When I first started sewing tailored pieces for my mature figure, I thought “fitted” meant “tight.” That misconception led to beautiful garments that sat unworn in my closet. Today, I’m sharing how I learned to create elegance through movement, and how proper ease transformed not just my garments, but my entire approach to sewing.

The Elegance Equation

Contrary to what fashion magazines might suggest, true elegance isn’t about restriction – it’s about freedom. Think of Joan Collins gracefully descending a staircase or Star Jones commanding a courtroom. That effortless sophistication comes from garments designed to move with you, not against you.

Understanding Your Space

Before we get into the specifics of measurements and adjustments, let’s think about how you move in your clothes every day. Try this:

• Stretch up to grab something from a high shelf.
• Sit down and casually cross your legs.
• Twist to glance over your shoulder.
• Breathe deeply and fully.

These simple actions require flexibility in your clothing. As sewists, our goal isn’t just to make garments that fit but to create ones that give us the freedom to live and move comfortably.

These everyday movements require space in specific areas of our garments. As mature sewists, we’re not just making clothes – we’re crafting freedom of movement.

The Technical Dance

Here’s where we get practical. For a tailored jacket that feels as good as it looks, consider these crucial ease allowances:

Upper Back Ease

That moment when you reach for your grandchild or grab something from a shelf? That’s your upper back talking. Add 1/2 inch to your upper back width, tapering to nothing at the waist. This small adjustment makes a world of difference in comfort while maintaining a sleek silhouette.

Armscye Adjustment

A properly fitted armhole is the secret to elegant movement. For mature figures, consider:

Lowering the armscye by 1/4 inch

Adding 3/8 inch to the bicep

Adjusting the shoulder slope for perfect drape

The Sitting Test

Remember: every tailored garment should pass the “sitting test.” Add 1 inch of ease at the hip for skirts and pants, tapering gradually to maintain the line. Your garment should whisper, not shout, as you move.

Beyond Measurements

But this isn’t just about numbers. It’s about understanding that elegance comes from confidence, and confidence comes from comfort. When I adjusted my first jacket pattern using these principles, something magical happened. Not only could I move freely, but I stood taller, gestured more naturally, felt more myself.

Your Personal Prescription

Every body tells a different story. Start with these adjustments:

Measure yourself in motion, not just standing still

Add ease progressively – you can always take in, but letting out isn’t always possible

Test your adjustments in muslin, moving through your daily activities

Remember: Coco Chanel said elegance is being able to move freely. As mature sewists, we have the power to create garments that honor both our style and our need for movement. That’s not just sewing – that’s wisdom.

Next time you’re fitting a pattern, remember: true elegance has room to breathe. Your garments should be your partners in sophistication, not your restraints.